In July of 1874, King Christian IX of Denmark and Iceland and his son Prince Valdemar paid a Royal Visit to Iceland to commemorate the discovery and habitation of the island one thousand years earlier. The visit was of particular note not only because of the long and arduous journey which it entailed, but it was also the first time that a reigning King of Denmark and Iceland had visited this part of his Kingdom. Furthermore, opinion in Iceland was divided with Icelandic nationalists, such as Jón Sigurdsson, set on a ‘national revival’ and independence from Denmark, while others preferred to maintain the status quo. Nonetheless, in 1848 19 delegates of the consultative assembly (Alþingi) (re)established by the decree of Christian VIII a few years earlier, had requested that the King now permit a parliament to be formed which had powers similar to the Danish Parliament in Copenhagen. In 1867, 1869 and 1871 the Danish government had submitted draft constitutions to the assembly but no agreement had yet been reached. However, as shall be seen, King Christian IX would bring a rather special “gift” to commemorate his “millennium” visit.

In anticipation of the Icelandic tour, the Marshal of the Royal Court in Copenhagen was kept busy over several months making plans for the long trip by sea, ensuring that their were sufficient supplies for the journey there and back, a period of many weeks, as well as provisions to sustain the royal party during their stay ashore: As the King also intended to undertake a round of official entertaining of his Icelandic subjects, the cargo included a good supply of meat and wine, as well as crockery and glassware.
The royal duo departed Friedrichshafen, Denmark on the evening of 21 July travelling aboard the Danish Royal Navy frigate Jylland. Accommodation had been arranged for the King which included the use of a newly refurbished bedroom (with water closet) and sitting room. The corvette Hjemdal provided an escort and between them the two ships were manned by a total crew of 650. There were some very rough seas en route, as the ships bypassed the Shetland islands, off the north coast of Scotland and sailed onwards to the Faroe Islands, the first stop of the tour on 25 July (and another territory of Denmark). Although the visit was brief (lasting only two days) and the Mayor was taken ill (and subsequently died), the Faroese gave their Sovereign a very warm welcome, both at sea (when some fifty ships sailed out to accompany the royal ship into harbour) and subsequently as King Christian and Prince Valdemar landed at the main settlement at Tórshavn. It was certainly a memorable occasion for the locals as this was the first time that a Danish King had set foot on these northern islands which were situated some 350 kilometres north of Scotland. The American press-who were shadowing the King on this tour of the Faroes and Iceland in a steamer flying the Stars and Stripes from the foremast (and the Danish flag from the Mainmast), showed a keen interest and filed a report stating that ‘every vessel in the harbor [sic] and every house in town are flying the Danish flag.’ The King visited the Løgting, said to be the oldest parliament in the world, attended a church service (packed to the rafters with curious parishioners) and invited a large party of locals onboard the Jylland where they were royally entertained. The Faroe islanders-who had their own distinctive culture and language-were equally keen to entertain their King and an evening feast was held on the second evening of the visit, during which locals gave a spirited display of traditional dances. As the royal party departed the Faroes on 27 July, King Christian was also touched to be serenaded in a song composed by the Lutheran pastor and songwriter P. Alberg Holm (who had a Faroese mother) which concluded with the words ‘The Faroese have greeted their Lord.’
If anything, the 750 kilometre royal journey from the Faroes Islands to Iceland was even more eventful, with anything not lashed down in the Jylland flung from side to side by the rough seas. Nor were the sailors guaranteed a good sleep as it required all their strength and determination to remain in their bunks. It must therefore have been a particular relief to reach the Icelandic capital of Reykjavik at 2 pm on 30 July. This time the welcome was even more impressive as in addition to the cheers from the local populace (the city had a population of 16,000), visiting warships from Sweden, Germany, France, Norway and Denmark provided a mighty royal gun salute; while a beautifully decorated arch of honour had been erected on the pier and a choir sang a selection of welcoming songs.
The King and his son were greeted by the Town Corporation (led by the Mayor) and other local dignitaries. His Majesty had indicated that he did not wish the authorities to prepare a long Address; although a compromise was reached with a short speech of welcome. King Christian was informed that ‘Iceland is a poor country, considering the scarcity of its inhabitants and the condition of their material comforts; but if regard be had to the memories of the past thousand years, then Iceland is a wealthy country and it abounds no less in loyal faith and love to Your Majesty. Our Millennial festivity therefore becomes doubly glorious both by Your Majesty’s presence and participation therein and by the Free Constitution wherewith it has pleased Your Majesty to inaugurate this jubilee.’ King Christian replied that there had never been any doubt as to the sincerity of the attachment of the Icelanders to their Sovereign. Indeed, it was a matter of ‘great joy’ to him to be among his Icelandic people and he trusted that the new constitution (promulgated on 5 January but coming into effect during the visit) which he brought with him would ‘prove to be a powerful aid to the intellectual and material development’ of Iceland and its people. The latter responded with cheers and cries of ‘Long Live our King Christian IX’, with the women present waving freshly laundered white handkerchiefs in greeting. Meanwhile, the sailors on board the Jylland and the Hjemdal, aided by the many locals, spent around many hours transferring supplies ashore continuously over the next ten days. Matters were not helped by the fact that there were no roads to speak off and no carriages or wagons for transporting the goods.
The day following his arrival, the King and Prince Valdemar set out on horseback to view salmon farms which were teeming with the ray-finned fish. Then, on 1 August, the Christian visited Havnefjord (Hafnarfjörður) to inspect the laying of Iceland’s first road. A young poet, Carl Andersen, would act as an interpreter for the King during the visit as and when required. On 2 August, a Sunday, special solemn services were held in churches throughout Iceland. Bishop Pétur Pétursson chose the text which was to be used from Psalm 90. The royal party attended church in the Cathedral in Reykjavik, the King’s pew decorated for the occasion with flowers. The service and the readings were in Icelandic but nonetheless made a memorable impression on the visitors, as did the choir of men and women who sung so movingly. The National Song or Anthem Ó, Guð vors Lands (Oh! God of Our Country) composed by Sveinbjörn Sveinbjörnsson was first sung on this occasion. After the service, a large banquet was held attended by the local governor and other officials. Then, as it was summer, and there was almost constant daylight, a public festival took place in a local square at Öskjuhlíð, with dancing as well as songs and speeches in Icelandic and Danish. This pleased His Majesty who was keen to involve as many islanders as possible during his visit.
Having focused on the coastal capital area, the King and Prince Valdemar, accompanied by the Governor and other gentlemen then departed on 3 August for a journey into the geyser-filled interior. This involved a two-day trek. 250 horses were made available for this trip and these were placed under the supervision of six attendants to keep them in line. In addition, a guide went in front to lead the way, while another kept to the rear to ensure there were no stragglers among an additional ninety packhorses which were loaded with supplies for the royal party. These included forty tents, bedding, food and other provisions. A highlight of this visit was the sight of the impressive Stokkur geyser, east of Reykjavik, close by the Hvítá River. This could reach a height of around 40 metres (130 feet).

After climbing to higher ground on 5 August, the royal party set out early on the morning of 6 August for eleven hours of strenuous riding to the Thingveller (Þingvellir) plain, located some 50 kilometres from the capital. It was at the latter place, the site of the first ancient Norse parliament in 930AD, that His Majesty was almost overcome by the sight of what has been described as ‘the largest crowd’ ever to have gathered at that time in Iceland, the vast majority who had travelled on horseback from a distance, necessitating the bringing of tents, food and other requisites. These loyal subjects had set up a camp close to the local Thingveller Church to participate in this National Festival. Meanwhile, the London Illustrated News had engaged their “Special Artist” Mr. Melton Prior to provide images of the tour.
It was at Thingveller (Þingvellir), on the morning of 7 August, that the King was to hand over his “gift” to the Icelanders a new Constitution. However, firstly, His Majesty received a Loyal Address in Icelandic on behalf of those gatheredm which nonetheless emphasised Iceland’s determination to assert its right to a national existence, while at the same time offering up a fervent prayer for the King and members of the Royal House. As King Christian handed over the historical document, he replied that he gladly accepted the loyal assurances of the people and that expressed the hope that the new Constitution, when put to a practical test, would operate beneficially for the good of the people. Certainly, the 1874 Constitution, as it would become known, was of particular significance as it granted Iceland a degree of self-determination and autonomy, including the establishment of a legislature. It was noted that the King was to continue to maintain the ability to appoint a Governor and laws relating to internal matters could now be passed by the new Legislative Assembly (the Alþingi) with the King retaining a power of veto. This legislative body would have an Upper and Lower House, partly elected by the people and partly nominated by the King. Of particular relevance was that the new Constitution gave Iceland a modern form of government by the standards of the time as well as the establishment of a Free Press, a taxation system and an elementary education. The journal Illustreret Tidende stated (somewhat optimistically) that the Icelandic constitutional struggle had now ended. More prescient was the view that this was the beginning of the ‘long and winding road’ towards Icelandic independence. Indeed, in 2003, during a visit by his Danish counterpart, the Prime Minister of Iceland would reflect that the 1874 constitution was ‘considered to be one of the great milestones in the Icelandic nation’s struggle for independence. In fact, it laid the foundation of the country’s history on which all subsequent actions were built.’
At the conclusion of the handover ceremony, the King partook of a large breakfast in a large “state tent” filled with dignitaries and foreign representatives. A toast-in Danish-was raised to ‘the health of His Majesty’ (this raised a loud cheer from all those assembled). The King thereafter replied that he would ensure that his son and grandchildren would learn the Icelandic language which he sincerely regretted not being able to speak himself (this drew another cheer). Meanwhile, many institutions including the University of Copenhagen, the Danish Society of Antiquaries, the Danish Academy of Fine Arts, the University of Uppsala, the University of Kristiania (today’s Oslo) and the people of the Faroe Islands had sent formal congratulatory messages to the people of Iceland on the reaching of such a historical milestone. Thereafter, as he prepared to make his departure for the long trek back to the capital, King Christian moved among his people, talking to as many as possible. Most would of those gathered would remain to enjoy an afternoon of feasting and festive displays. Later, as the King ascended the pass which led out of the valley, His Majesty stopped briefly and turned to acknowledge those on the plain below. This drew a loud cheer from the crowd which continued until he had disappeared out of sight.

When the King subsequently returned with the Royal Party to Reykjavik, following a day of rest, the municipality held a Ball on the Sunday evening in Christian IX’s honour, the hall in which it was held was decorated with a plethora of potted plants, most of which were grown, of necessity, either indoors or under glass. The King later took a walk through the nearby streets, speaking to locals and the better to take in the view in the late summer sunshine.
The Royal Visit concluded on the evening of 10 August with a Ball aboard the deck of the Jylland, which was festooned with lanterns and a selection of candelabra for illumination. In addition to notables such as the Governor and his wife, the officers of the escorting Danish ship and of the various international naval ships in the harbour were invited. Then, just prior to 11pm, the guests departed and the Jylland slipped out of the harbour around midnight, suitably transformed from a fairy-tale ballroom to a hardy seagoing vessel. On board was an interesting “passenger”. During the trip inland, a farmer Eiríkur Ólafsson was given the responsibility for selecting a suitable horse for Prince Valdemar, to whom the latter became very attached. In a kind gesture, the farmer gave the horse to the young prince as a gift. The following day the Jylland and the Hjemdal made their way along the south coast of Iceland before travelling southwards.

However, for King Christian IX, the trip was not altogether over. As the King ‘s daughter, Alexandra, who was married to the heir to the British throne, the Prince of Wales and was currently on holiday in Scotland, it was arranged that the Jylland would dock at the Port of Leith, close to Scotland’s capital city of Edinburgh. The royal party had originally planned to disembark by launch at nearby Granton but stormy weather necessitated the change of venue. The King and Prince initially travelled by carriage to the Douglas Hotel where His Majesty later received the Lord Provost of Edinburgh (the Scotch equivalent of a Lord Mayor). While appreciating this welcome, King Christian was keen to emphasise that this was a purely private occasion and that formalities should be kept to a minimum. In the afternoon, the royal party, who now included Princess Alexandra, drove out to Dalkeith Palace, the home of the Duke of Buccleuch, one of Scotland’s senior peers, passing through the historical King’s Gate. Although the Duke was absent, the royal entourage were given a tour of the ducal property by one of the caretakers. In the palace’s portrait gallery, the Danish King and his children admired a portrait of the Scots-born Queen Anne of Denmark by the artist Jamieson. Another royal outing by the royal trio during the visit was to the Theatre Royal to view the play “She Stoops to Conquer.” The press noted that the theatre had doubled the prices such was the demand to be present at such a rare royal outing in the capital.
King Christian was saluted in the Scottish newspapers as a ‘laborious and upright monarch’, His Majesty and Prince Valdemar spent four days in Scotland and made excursions to areas of beauty, of which there were many. Then, on 20 July, Alexandra joined her father and brother aboard the Jylland for the return journey to Denmark. On 23 August, the Jylland reached Vebaek in North Zeeland, where a flotilla of fourteen steamships, with some 6,000 passengers (other sources say 10,000) on board, had come out to greet the royal party in the Sound. Subsequently, the Queen of Denmark, the Crown Prince and the Crown Princess and Princess Thyra sailed out to the Jylland for an emotional reunion. On their return to shore, a crowd of 50,000 lined the streets to cheer the King as he returned to Amalienborg. The historic journey was now at end.
King Christian IX could now reflect on a wonderful visit to his two distant territories as well as the warmth and kindness he had encountered among his northern peoples.























































