On Wednesday 22nd September, Britain’s King Charles III commenced a State Visit to France, accompanied by his wife Queen Camilla. Although he had, as Prince of Wales, visited on 34 previous occasions, this was His Majesty’s first visit since his accession to the throne in September 2022. In the age of social media the President had already released a poignant message to his royal visitor: ”You visited as a Prince, you return as a King. Your Majesty, welcome”.
The visit started on a blustery note when the royal aircraft-an Airbus Voyager-flew into a windswept Orly Airport. First down the steps was His Majesty, dressed in a traditional suit. He was followed by his wife, Queen Camilla, who visibly struggled to keep her pink Philip Treacy hat from flying into the blue yonder, as she descended the aircraft steps. Fortunately, Camilla’s pink wool crepe coat dress by British designer Fiona Clare, refrained from adding to her obvious discomfiture.
Thereafter, there was to be a warm welcome throughout the stay, starting with an official greeting from the French Prime Minister, Elisabeth Borne. Also waiting patiently in line to shake hands with the royal couple were the British Foreign Secretary James Cleverly, the British Ambassador Dame Menna Rawlings and the French Ambassador to the United Kingdom, Hélène Tréheux-Duchêne. Twenty members of the Republican Guard formed a Guard of Honour.
The niceties over, the King and Queen then drove off in the State Bentley (which had been brought over to Paris from the mews at Buckingham Palace) to journey into central Paris surrounded by police outriders. Indeed, security was noticeably tight with French newspapers frequently mentioning ‘the ring of steel’ which had been put in place, with the aid of 8000 police, to help guard against any possible terrorist attacks or civil disturbance. The first engagement of the visit took place at the Arc de Triomphe where the King and Queen were warmly received by President Macron and his chic wife Brigitte. The President was seen to briefly giggle as Queen Camilla continued to struggle with her hat in the windy conditions. Yet soon all was serious as a service of remembrance commenced (attended by veterans and members of the military) during which the King re-lit the eternal flame of remembrance (in memory of those who died in the First and Second World Wars) using the Comite de la Flamme passed to him by Monsieur Macron. He and the King also laid a wreath together. In another symbol of togetherness, almost simultaneously, there was a joint flypast above the iconic monument by aircraft from Britain’s Red Arrows and their French counterpart La Patrouille de France.
After meeting British and French veterans, pupils from the British School of Paris as well as Scouts and Guides, the King joined the President to travel down the Avenue des Champs-Élysées in an official car. Security prohibited the use of an open top vehicle, but as a compromise the King and the President stood up and waved to waiting crowds through the car’s open sunroof. The Queen and Birgitte Macron travelled behind in a second vehicle.
Arriving at the President of France’s official residence, the Élysée Palace, the two couple’s paused briefly on the steps for a photographic opportunity. Once inside, protocol dictated that there by an exchange of gifts between the King and the President. Charles gave Monsieur Macron a set of the complete works of Voltaire, while the French President presented Charles with a specially commissioned gold coin from the Paris Mint which features the King’s image on one side and Highgrove, His Majesty’s Gloucestershire home, on the other. Charles was also given a rare edition of the Romain Gary novel, Les Racines du Ciel [The Roots of Heaven].
Subsequently, the King was in a visibly relaxed mood as he smiled and laughed with onlookers while walking with the President from the Elysee Palace to the nearby British Ambassador’s residence situated on the fashionable rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. From above, people gathered on balconies and cried out “Vive Le Roi” [God Save the King] as Charles passed below them, guarded by protection officers. On arriving at the Residence (which was once the home of Napoleon’s sister Princess Borghese), the King and the President planted an oak tree. This was a tradition which was a particular favourite of the late Queen Elizabeth II.
In the evening, the King and Queen were guests of the President at a sumptuous banquet held in the historical setting of the Salon de Glaces [Hall of Mirrors] at the Palace of Versailles. The palace was built by France’s King Louis XIV and is situated some 19 kilometres from the city centre of Paris. All eyes were Queen Camilla as she stepped from the royal car wearing a blue navy cape evening dress by Dior, accessorised by a superb Victorian sapphire and diamond necklace which had been a wedding gift from King George VI to his elder daughter, the future Queen Elizabeth II, in 1947. Sadly, Queen Camilla chose not to wear the sapphire and diamond tiara which her late mother-in-law had purchased in 1963 to compliment this necklace. 160 guest were invited to attend and included singer Sir Mick Jagger, actor Hugh Grant and former Chelsea boss Arsene Wenger. They dined on lobster, crab, Bresse chicken, thirty-month-old Comté cheese and renowned French pastry chef Pierre Hermé’s signature pudding Isfahan Persian Macaron which contains rose water, raspberries, and lychees.
In his speech, the King recalled the “profoundly moving gestures” in France, including the flying of the Union flag at the Elysée Palace at the time of his mother’s death, in September 2022. Charles continued by observing that “your invitation to visit France and your exceptionally generous hospitality, are symbols of the enduring relationship between our two countries.” The King also recalled the Entente Cordiale which had been promoted between the two countries 120 years ago, thanks to the support of his great-great grandfather, King Edward VII. As he proposed a toast to the President, His Majesty noted, “Whatever lies ahead, may it endure, faithful and constant, for centuries to come.”
Although it had been a late night, the King and Queen were up bright and early to undertake a busy day of engagements. Charles had the honour of being the first British monarch to address French parliamentarians in the Senate. The speech he made was political: His Majesty was particularly focused on Ukraine and environmental matters. Russia’s “unjustified aggression” against Ukraine was condemned and the King talked-up Britain and France’s “unwavering” joint determination to ensure Ukraine “will triumph.” Where the environment was concerned he was equally robust: “Just as we stand together against military aggression, so must we strive together to protect the world from our most existential challenge of all: that of global warming, climate change and the catastrophic destruction of nature.” Charles received a standing ovation for his efforts.
The Queen, meanwhile, was at an event at France’s recently renovated National Library to inaugurate a new UK-France Literary Prize, Le Prix de l’Entente Littéraire, for young adult fiction. Camilla is passionate about all things literary and she is patron of several British charities including BookTrust and the National Literacy Trust. Her Majesty also presides over an online book club, “The Queen’s Reading Room.” Interestingly, Madame Macron is a former teacher of literature. On display for the VIP guests to peruse in the Salon d’honneur were works by Shakespeare, a first edition of Victor Hugo’s historical novel Les Misérables and an original artwork from a comic strip featuring Astérix le Gaulois [Asterix The Gaul]. Subsequently, at a reception in the imposing Salle Ovale of the library, the Queen mixed with British authors Ken Follet and Sebastian Faulks, as well as the Editor-in-Chief of France’s popular Point de Vue magazine which regularly features articles on European royalty.
Thereafter, the King and Queen, accompanied by Madame Macron, ventured to the northern Paris suburb of Saint-Denis. The royal visitors visited the Saint-Denis’s historic basilica (the burial place of French monarchs) and the town hall. The King also ventured to the local Rugby World Cup village (France is currently hosting this event) where he met rugby players, sports commentators and others associated with sport including FC Paris Saint-Germain’s defender, Presnel Kimpembe. Charles was also introduced to the football club’s Qatari president, Nasser al-Khelaifi (who presented him with the a No 3 player’s top featuring name of Charles). However, Camilla and Madame Macron also had their moment in the limelight when they indulged in a game of table tennis at a local community centre. The Queen quickly realised her limitations and laughed at her attempts, “This is embarrassing”. This ability to laugh at herself is endearing, as is her lack of pomposity.
Charles and Camilla subsequently returned to the city centre to visit the Paris flower market, situated on Île De La Cité, Marche Aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II. This was renamed in honour of the King’s mother at the time of her State Visit to France, in June 2014, during which Her Majesty visited the market and unveiled a sign bearing the new name. The King and Queen were re-joined by President Macron and his wife as they inspected the ongoing restoration work at the Notre-Dame Cathedral which was devastated by a fire in 2019. It is hoped the cathedral will reopen at the end of 2024. The visitors met firefighters and craftsmen involved in the rebuilding works.
On the final day of the three-day State Visit, the King and Queen flew to Bordeaux for a packed schedule of engagements. They were originally meant to have travelled by the TGV high-speed train but details of this were leaked in advance, creating security concerns. This south-western city is home to around 39,000 Brits. Their Majesties first made a stop at le Palais Rohan (the city’s Hotel de Ville/Town Hall) on Place Pey Berland where they were received by the Mayor of Bordeaux, Pierre Hurmic. While the royal couple signed the visitors’ book, they were serenaded by a local youth orchestra, before venturing into the garden to plant a loquat leaf oak tree. Meanwhile, hundreds of enthusiastic bystanders lined the streets outside to wave Union Jack and Tricolore flags in greeting. While some clapped and cheered, others were heard to shout “Vive le Roi” . A particularly moving (and spontaneous) event occurred when the King encountered the Fiji National Rugby Team at a festival on the Place de la Bourse and they serenaded him with ‘Au Rai Vei Kemuni’, a hymn traditionally sung at Fiji rugby games. The King’s mother, Queen Elizabeth II was highly revered and was recognised in Fiji as Tui Viti [“supreme tribal chief”] by the Great Council of Chiefs. When the country became a republic in 1987, Her Majesty’s official portrait remained on the walls of Government House, looking down on successive Presidents of Fiji as they swore-in government ministers.
Later, Charles and Camilla attended an official reception on board the Royal Navy Frigate HMS Iron Duke. On arrival the royal couple were greeted by a Royal Guard of Honour (who were inspected by the King) and the National Anthem was performed by the Band of His Majesty’s Royal Marines Lympstone. During the event, Their Majesties spoke to Royal Navy personnel, as well as to their French counterparts from the Marine Nationale [French navy] in order to discover how the two nations are collaborating on defence matters. Also present were local dignitaries and members of local veterans groups.
The royal couple were then given an exclusive tour of the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte vineyard by owners Florence and Daniel Cathiard during which Charles and Camilla sampled some ‘very good’ red wine (dating from 2005, the year of their marriage) and were introduced to one of the Llamas which are used to help weed the fields. The vineyard is known for its sustainable approach to wine-making and is said to be completely organic. It also produces solar energy.
The influential French newspaper, Le Monde, opined that the visit of Charles III had “launched a reboot” of the relationship between Britain and France. But was the aim of highlighting the closeness and friendship between France and the United Kingdom, despite the shockwave of Brexit, achieved? Time will tell. Certainly, despite the security, the crowds found a way of telling the King and his wife that they were welcome, both in the City of Light and in Bordeaux. Many of the French people clearly have a place in their hearts for royalty and, in particular, for British royalty. The memory of Elizabeth II-so often alluded to directly or indirectly throughout the visit-has gone a long way to ensure this is so. Yet, the King and Queen shone bright in their own right, undertaking engagements after their own fashion. Furthermore, the press commented on the warmth between the royal couple and the presidential couple. Indeed, the whole tone was so different from the more formal State Visits of the past. It is to be hoped, as the King said in his speech in the French Senate, that the United Kingdom and the France will always remain “best friends” of an “absolutely vital partnership” as “together we face the challenges of the world”.